Winter Pruning for Fruit Trees
Classic fruit trees like apple (Malus), pear (Pyrus), and many stone fruit varieties such as cherry (Prunus) are cultivated plants that require management. This means regular pruning. Winter pruning primarily aims to control shoot growth in the following year to achieve a good harvest. Expert pruning also increases the lifespan of a fruit tree by helping it develop a stable crown structure.

Winter pruning refers to pruning measures taken during the dormant season – typically from November to March. This contrasts with summer pruning, which is carried out when the trees are in leaf, often directly after harvest. Generally, for native fruit trees, a rejuvenation prune can be done in both summer and winter. The advantage of winter pruning is that the tree's structure is more clearly visible due to the absence of leaves.

Winter Pruning: Crown Shaping
When it comes to shaping the tree's crown during winter pruning, two main forms are distinguished: the pyramid crown and the hollow crown. The three to four main, or scaffold branches, remain with the tree for its entire life. Therefore, in the first few years, training pruning plays a crucial role in establishing the correct structure.

The characteristic feature of a pyramid crown is a central trunk that extends continuously from the ground to the tip, resembling a Christmas tree in shape. The three to four main branches are arranged along this central leader at an angle of 45 to 50 degrees. Shoots growing too steeply upwards are spread out with a piece of wood, while those growing too flat can be tied upwards with string.

In contrast, the hollow crown has no central trunk extension. Instead, its three to four equally strong main branches spread out evenly in all directions.

Winter Pruning: Impact of Pruning Strength
The strength of the prune directly influences how the tree develops in the upcoming season. A strong prune results in the tree growing more vigorously but producing fewer flower buds. While this leads to a smaller number of fruits, those fruits will be larger. Conversely, a weak prune will have the opposite effect.

Hobby gardeners can learn and practice the correct fruit tree pruning techniques. It's crucial to understand the laws of growth, as pruning methods can vary significantly depending on the fruit variety. Information on pruning courses offered by fruit growing associations and conservationists can often be found in local newspapers and on the respective organizations' websites.

Pruning Apple Trees: Key Rules
When pruning apple trees, be decisive with your shears! Start by cutting all inward-growing branches, then remove whip shoots (also known as water sprouts or suckers) and parallel branches. Anything growing inwards, such as crisscrossing or rubbing branches, should be removed, as well as any dead wood.

Whip shoots are vigorous, vertically growing shoots that sometimes even sprout low down on the trunk. All branches that grow downwards past the horizontal should also be removed.

For the proper care of fruit trees, you need the right pruning tools. Most importantly, all your tools should always be clean and sharp. To keep them sharp, a whetstone is essential. Here are the tools you'll need:

- Hand pruners with a double blade: These are ideal. Anvil pruners are less suitable, especially for young shoots, as they can crush branches too much.
- Loppers (Astschere): These make effortless cuts on thicker branches.
- Telescopic pruners and saws: For safe work from the ground on higher branches, combinations of these tools are very effective.
- Orchard ladders: For taller trees where climbing might be necessary, these ladders with ground spikes provide good stability.
- Bow saw with an adjustable blade: This allows for pruning in awkward or angled areas of the tree.