Whether you have a new, "untouched" plot of land or want to redesign an existing garden: the first and most important step in garden planning is structuring the garden and designing the paths. Thanks to numerous materials and construction methods, everyone can find the right fit for their garden.

Whether you need to reach something quickly or have time to stroll, whether you frequently visit the path's destination or just occasionally—all of this influences the location and design of your paths. Therefore, a distinction is made between main paths and secondary paths.

Main paths are frequently used, such as the access to the house in the front garden or the path to the trash bins, or in the ornamental garden, the path to the seating area or the herb bed. Main paths should be 110-160 cm wide and have a firm, easily walkable surface.

Less frequently used secondary paths are narrower, at least 60 cm wide, and can also be made with loose material like bark mulch or gravel. In some places, even single stepping stones are enough to show the way.

When designing paths, you have the choice between straight or curved lines. The decision depends on the style of the garden and the house, as well as how directly and quickly the path should lead to its destination.

Generally, paths that aren't immediately visible at a glance appear more interesting and exciting. You can break up straight paths into sections, for example, with a green archway or flanking plants, or by placing a shrub or sculpture that the path "avoids," creating an offset. Every path should have a destination; at its end, create an interesting focal point, such as a potted plant, a bench, or a sculpture. The curves of a winding path also need justification, meaning an "obstacle" like a plant or sculpture "causes" the bend. On a path that simply meanders across a flat area without accents or border planting, desire paths would quickly form as shortcuts.

You can somewhat trick the perception of a path: building it narrower towards the back makes it appear longer; if it widens towards the back, it seems more generous. For narrow paths, choose small-format stones to make the path look bigger. Long paths, on the other hand, can be visually shortened by interrupting them with paving strips laid across. Paths running diagonally create an illusion of more space and depth.

Also, remember to provide adequate lighting, especially for main paths. Only then can they be safely used in the dark. Lights are also a great design tool to set accents and create different moods.

When making your selection, make sure the paths match the style of your house and garden. Don't use too many different coverings for the various paths. Less is truly more here; otherwise, you won't achieve harmony and unity throughout the garden.

For main paths, it's best to choose durable surfaces that are non-slip and safe to walk on. Natural stones have a warm appeal and are very robust, though not entirely cheap. At specialty stores, you'll find options like granite, sandstone, limestone, travertine, or basalt as pavers or slabs in various sizes and finishes (from roughly cut to finely polished).

Concrete pavers are a bit more affordable, available in countless sizes and color shades. These artificially produced, easy-to-maintain stones look modern and more austere than natural stone. Sandblasted versions and those with a natural stone overlay have a warmer appeal thanks to their textured surface.

In rural areas, especially in northern Germany, clinker bricks are a popular material. These durable clay-fired bricks, with their warm red, brown, or yellow tones, fit very well into romantic country or cottage gardens. They can also be used for stairs and walls.

Paths made of wood also have a warm, natural appeal but aren't as durable as stone. Woods like oak, larch, pine, black locust, or Douglas fir are commonly used; they are usually pre-treated for extended durability. You can find wooden planks, tiles, pavers, or even tree slices as stepping stones. A ribbed surface ensures the path isn't too slippery in wet weather.

Grass paths, a cost-effective alternative to solid surfaces, naturally require regular maintenance but are a delight for both eyes and feet.

Loose coverings are better suited for secondary paths. They aren't as easy to traverse with wheelbarrows or lawnmowers, and you might track some material with your shoes. Depending on the type, they also require occasional refilling. Possible materials include gravel, fine chippings, wood chips, or bark mulch. An installed plastic fleece prevents weeds from growing through from underneath.