Calluna vulgaris 'Marleen'
Recommended type: P 0,5
- Height 10 - 15 cm
from just 2,00 € plus 7% VAT
Calluna vulgaris 'Marleen'
- 0,2-0,3 m
- up to 0,4 m
- weak , upright, wide , compact
- evergreen, needle-shaped, overlapping like roof tiles, dark green
- pink-violet, late
- acidic soil, sandy to peaty, not too dry
- in groups, heath gardens, cemeteries, accompanies rhododendron and azalea, good in pots
- buds flower
- Item number
- Climate zone
Select your desired type
Select your desired type
View instructional video
Do you have questions?
We are happy to help, give us a call or use our FAQs below.
IRRIGATION BOWL AND WATERING
Having an irrigation bowl is essential, as only then can you make sure that the newly planted tree will grow well.
- Construct an irrigation bowl of around 15 to 30 centimetres in height and with the same diameter as the root ball after planting the tree. This should be maintained for three years after planting.
- Additionally a layer of mulch of up to 5cm deep helps to retain moisture.
- Newly planted trees should be watered for the first four to five years after planting.
- Please remember that even a tree which has begun producing new shoots needs to be regularly watered, even under damp weather conditions.
- Water every 14 days, depending on weather conditions.
It’s important to make sure that the root ball doesn’t sit too deep in the pit.
- The ball should be visible at least 5cm above the pit. Only then can you be sure that the tree will stand correctly after watering and subsidence.
- BWith strongly compacted, impermeable soil, place the tree at least 10cm higher and fill the pit with substrate or humus-rich soil. In this way you can make sure that the roots will get enough oxygen.
- Avoid waterlogging and muddy, non-porous mulch layers. This can result in the suffocation of the roots and an ensuing rotting due to the lack of oxygen.
- The best thing to do is to lay slats over the tree pit to act as a leveler.
OPENING THE PLANT BASKET
Our balled plants are wrapped in burlap beneath a mesh wire made from ungalvanized iron.
- Put the ball at the right height in te pit.
- Open the burlap and the tensioning wire of the wire mesh, so that the pressure on the roots is eased. The burlap and the mesh wire decay quickly so that the roots are freed.
TREE PIT AND SUBSTRATE
Be careful when digging the tree pit that it is not too deep. After planting the tree it will always subside somewhat and it would be easy for this to lead to the tree’s sitting deeper than desired.
- The pit should be double the size of the root ball in both length and width.
- Place matured, humus-rich topsoil separately from subsoil beside the pit.
- Place the subsoil in the pit before putting the tree into it. Important: Check how deeply the plant sits before filling the pit up with topsoil.
- Compacted soils and qualitatively poor earth should not be used for purposes of refilling. Make sure to replace excavated earth with plant substrate of good quality.
- Consider using our Active Substrate 2000 and our new Active Structure Substrate 2005, which you can find in the Plant Supplies section.
TREE ANCHORING ! NR. 1
Staking a freshly planted tree well is as important as planting it well. A tree whose roots can not be at rest cannot grow.
- The delicate sucker roots should be allowed to de velop without being disturbed and shouldn’t be pulled up.
- The number and alignment of the stakes depends on the size and weight of the tree.
- Use binding of a good thickness which won’t cut into the tree.
- Trees thicken their trunks in their second year, so the bonds must be appropriately loosened and retied.
Trunk thickness: 12 - 18 cm two stakes (8cm Ø)
Trunk thickness: 18 - 25 cm three stakes (8cm Ø)
Trunk thickness: 25 - 40 cm three stakes (10cm Ø)
Trunk thickness: 40 - 50 cm five& stakes (10cm Ø)
Trunk thickness: 50 cm+ on request
TREE ANCHORING " NR. 2
A further possibility of anchoring the tree involves subterranean anchoring - which we use under the name Platipus.
- This invisible method is best suited for situations where although the tree has been newly planted it should give a “finished” impression.
Of course Lorberg also offers subterranean anchoring.
PLANT TRIMMING PART 1
The optimal crown trim results in a wide, pyramid-shaped crown.
- The optimal crown trim results in a wide, pyramid-shaped crown.
- If you find that another branch is competing withthe uppermost branch so that a fork develops, you should cleanly cut away one of the branches.
- The side branches should only be trimmed in the upper crown area of the tree, the lower side branches should be left as long as possible.
- To reduce evaporation, remove some of the branches and trim the many smaller auxiliary branches.
- When the side branches need to be trimmed back, then do this only in one-year-old branches and not with two- to three-year-old wood.
- Appropriate tools which are kept sharp help to make sure of a correct cut.
PLANT TRIMMING PART 2
Je größer der Baum ist, desto stärker muss die Reduzierung sein.
- Always cut the branches at the branch collar, and make sure that no cones are left.
- You should try to avoid leaving any large wounds on the trunk of the tree.
- When cutting make sure that no water can remain on the cut area.
- Try to cut in such a way that as smooth and even a wound as possible is left. The smaller the wound, the sooner the tree can close it.
- Reduction of branching can be carried out until up to 60% is removed, without the nature of the tree being affected.